Wine 101: Bubbly primer for the holidays

Here’s a primer to set you up for the holidays, from how bubbly is produced to how to uncork them.|

When tasting bubbly, the French monk Dom Perignon supposedly said, “I’m tasting the stars!”

With my Wine 101 column, I intend to share what I know about these stars — sparklers in all their incarnations — to enrich your experience with them. Here’s a primer to set you up for the holidays. You’ll learn how bubbly is produced, how to distinguish the range of sparklers, how to buy the best sparklers and how to uncork them.

How sparklers are crafted

Upscale bubbly is born right in the bottle. All the action takes place in this vessel during a secondary fermentation. In the simplest terms, the yeast goes on an eating binge, devouring the sugar. The byproducts of that binge are those delightful bubbles: carbon dioxide and the yeast particles that impart rich toasty flavors during aging. This is the traditional French method, known as “methode champenoise,” and it’s widely used by top sparkling wine houses across the globe.

How to distinguish the range of sparklers

Northern California sparkling wine, at the top houses, rivals Champagne from France. While these sparklers tend to be more fruit-forward because of our warmer climate, many match the elegance of French Champagne. They use the traditional French methode champenoise and they’re typically produced from chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir.

Pét-nat is an abbreviation for “pétillant naturel,” a French term that roughly translates to “naturally sparkling.” It’s a broad term for almost any sparkling wine made in the ancestral method (méthode ancestral). This method involves bottling and sealing the wine before the initial fermentation has finished. And these natural sparklers are often made from unconventional grapes like riesling and even zinfandel.

Champagne, the most iconic bubbly, hails from the Champagne region of France and follows the strict laws of the appellation. It must, for instance, have its secondary fermentation in the bottle and follow the pressing method of the region. The grapes used to produce Champagne are primarily pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay. Associated with royalty beginning in the 17th century, Champagne continues to have its regal appeal.

Crémant is a French regional sparkling wine separate from Champagne. Yet, like Champagne, crémant undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle. While it can be crafted from Champagne’s typical varieties of chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir, crémant also can be produced from pinot blanc, riesling or pinot gris. This sparkler is less effervescent than its Champagne counterpart.

Spanish cava is a surprise to many because it’s a steal for the caliber of wine. The term “Cava” is reserved for wines produced like Champagne, with the second fermentation in the bottle. In Spain, those bottlings produced by other methods are called sparkling wines. The vast majority of Cavas, 95%, are produced in the Penedes area in Catalonia. Two of the top producers are Freixenet and Codorniu.

Italian proseccos are crisp, fruity sparkling wines made in the Veneto region from Glera grapes. They are less expensive to produce because they undergo a secondary fermentation in a large tank, a process coined “the Charmat method.” Prosecco falls short of the texture and toasty flavors you find in bottlings that have their second fermentation in the bottle.

German sekt is not necessarily sweeter than Champagne, but it can be. Most sekt has its secondary fermentation in a tank using the Charmat method, like prosecco. But some sekt undergoes a secondary fermentation in the bottle, like Champagne. Deutscher sekt means the fruit is from Germany. This sekt often uses German grapes like riesling, even though it also can be crafted from grapes like chardonnay. Deutscher sekt is considered by many to be the best quality to purchase.

South African cap classique refers to sparklers in the Cape that are produced like Champagne, with the second fermentation in the bottle. To distinguish themselves from lesser-quality sparklers, “cap classique” will be on the bottle. These wines are typically made from chardonnay and pinot noir, although sometimes you’ll find chenin blanc and sauvignon blanc in the mix. The category began with the release of Simonsig Wine Estate’s first sparkler in 1971, which mirrored Champagne with its traditional grape varieties and fermentation process.

How to select the best sparklers on the market

When shopping for bubbly, it’s important to look carefully at the wording on the label. Bottles that are made in the traditional Champagne method will have “traditional method,” “Methode champenoise” or “fermented in this bottle” on it. If you see a label that says “Charmat process,” that means the sparkler’s secondary fermentation was in a big container or tank. This process will create less-refined bubbles and a less complex sparkler.

Keep in mind the entry level price for Champagne is $40-plus. The price for bubbly outside of Champagne, while made in the traditional Champagne method, typically begins at $20. And most sparklers made in the Charmat process typically start at $10.

How to uncork a sparkler

Contrary to common belief, the best way to open a bottle of bubbly is not to pop the cork. It’s better to slowly allow the cork to release, achieving an ideal “sigh” as the cork exits the bottle. Simply loosen the cage of the sparkler, then hold it while twisting the bottle until the cork is slowly released.

When serving bubbly, choose the wide tulip or white wine glasses. The shape of these glasses best court complex aromas, such as brioche, biscuit and yeast. While a flute glass preserves the bubble the best, it doesn’t play up the aromas nearly as well. The coupe, popular in the 1950s, is best for inexpensive bottlings because the bubbles are quickly dispensed, making the bubbly taste softer and fruitier.

Serve bubbly at 45 to 50 degrees and take it out of the refrigerator 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

As a guideline, buy one bottle for every two people you’ll be serving or a 1-to-3 ratio if you have lightweight drinkers as guests.

Now that you’re well versed in bubbly, from how it’s crafted to how to uncork it, you’re set to taste countless stars.

You can reach wine writer Peg Melnik at peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com or 707-521-5310.

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